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How are Waves Measured?

Waves that impact the coast are often the product of multiple storms that result in waves of highly varied height and period. The product is waves arriving simultaneously at the beach from multiple directions. Thus, the measurement of waves is complex and involves more than general observations of height and period. Wave measurement and interpretation requires sophisticated and rugid instrumentation that can withstand the corrosive and energetic coastal environment. In addition, complicated anaylsis is applied to interpret the mixtures of waves arriving from single or multiple storms.

There are several methods and associated instrumentation that may be applied to measure waves in the coastal environment including pressure gauges, directional bouys and Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. An Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP™) was selected for deployment along the Texas coast because this instrument provides a way to measure current speed and direction as well as the capability to measure wave height, period, and direction. The ADCP™ measures a complete frequency-direction wave spectrum and can operate in shallow and deep waters. In addition the ADCP™ is capable of distinguishing waves from multiple directions and operates with less risk of loss or damage than a directional wave bouy. This instrument was selected to help scientists gain the greatest information about the wave climate through the measurement of velocity profiles, water level and wave frequency-direction spectra at once.

A detailed description of the principles of wave measurement by acoustic doppler current profiler

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